Entering the Cascade Range was a challenge with devastation of a three-year long El Nino. With the high desert of Eastern Oregon behind, we ventured deep into the wilderness of the Cascade Range.
This volcanic range is a string of volcano peaks and cinder cones. Glaciers linger well into summer and many are perpetual. The contrast between the black mountains with white clad glaciers and deep green forest is utterly spectacular.

With a desperate need of supplies, the choice was to ride into the temperate rain forest of Western Oregon. We followed an old historic stagecoach route into ewok land...a land of moss and primeval ferns. The old Santiam Wagon Road twisted between lava outcroppings along the malpias to the McKenzie River. Finding feed for the stock was difficult in the thick old growth virgin forest but enough to keep them strong.

The barefoot horses were tender from the rough lava, so the decision was made to ride the softer but treacherous McKenzie River Trail. River trails are always dangerous and this one was no exception. The powerful whitewater roared below as we crept along the banks on sheer cliffs.

At one point, the bucking packhorse wedged the panyards against an overhanging cliff and had to be unloaded within inches of the edge. Looking down at the tops of the trees and the blustering whitewater
made my head spin.

We passed by the mysterious ice cold Clear Lake with a whole forest preserved in it's frigid waters. The lake was formed when a lava flow diverted a creek into a shallow basin. Shortly after, we visited a
resort lodge with its famous Belknap Hot Spring. Unfortunately, the resort had no food and a juicy hamburger was on our mind.

We finally made it to the tiny burg of McKenzie Bridge. Our first stop was the Log Cabin Inn, a fancy restaurant and lounge, which was stagecoach stop but now a busy destination for tourists. We sauntered in all battered and torn up and quickly drew the attention of locals who suggested their giant burger for a well-deserved meal. There was a general store, a church and couple fishing resorts.

McKenzie Bridge is one of the nicest places we've seen so we decided to pick up work. Not only did we find work but a perfect hidden sanctuary to camp out. Our camp was full of soft moss in a triple
canopy forest of big leaf maples, western red cedars, hemlocks and colorful dogwoods. Flowing right through camp was a tiny ice-cold creek with miniature trout. The crystal clear brook was just a couple
feet wide and actually had a name, "Owl Creek."

When socializing at the Log Cabin, I was offered to care take a beautiful house right on the bank of the McKenzie River. This is not your ordinary house with an accessible location. In order to get there, I had to reel myself across a white-water river in a cable car. As you climb into the car and let go of land, the cart zooms off in an exciting ride as, the cable bellies downwards towards the river. The free ride ends halfway across the Belknap rapids with a great place to look for salmon or watch kayakers. It's then an uphill battle to hand crank to the other side.

The two-story cabin had a master bedroom suite on the upper floor with large picture windows and a spacious bathroom. The raging river was just 25 feet from the foundation! With large picture windows, we could easily watch the kayakers floating by. We could see them but they couldn't see us. The cabin was tucked away in the ferns under giant moss covered trees. The siding of the house was cedar shack shingles weathered for the perfect camouflage. Not only was this cabin hidden but also those brave enough to float the river had to concentrate on the rapids rather than looking at the bank.

The highlight of this beautiful cabin was its hot spring. Water came out of the ground at 186 degrees and was piped 300 feet to the house and into a large hot tub; this could easily fit a dozen people. The
water was cooled with ice-cold spring water that was piped 1000 feet from the steep mountainside. This hot mineral spring not only heated the water but the house itself! Jumping into the frigid river after a long soak was invigorating. The river was fast and dangerous but the large trout and king salmon loved this area!

Along with the enchanting scenery, we encountered a swarm of wonderful people; it was like one big family. In this small, burgeoning community, there was a lot of work and people looked out for each
other. I was working as a plumber at the Osprey Inn, a beautiful bed and breakfast right on the river. Many days were spent kayaking from this riverfront property. A few turns away were intense rapids where the turbulent Horse Creek busted its way into the McKenzie. Occasionally the Keller's call me back to do some improvements on the house.

McKenzie Bridge was the perfect place to rebuild the Expedition with all the good work and good friends. This is where we went from low tech to high tech with radio equipment, solar power and high-tech clothing. We also bred our mares to produce a couple touch-above trail babies who got their start in the Cascades. Dreams of returning to McKenzie Bridge are always there.