HORSEBACK AMERICA
Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail - Part 1 (9/98)
Dane Hartwell
eMail - 805-588-3833
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It's nice to be back in our "real" home which is America's wilderness. After a long wet winter, we are all happy to be traveling again. We are riding South through northern California and will continue riding the high country until the snow drives us out. We have a quick system now with many new changes from last summer. The weather has been perfect and all our horses and chickens are still with us. We appreciate very special second of summer's short mountain visit.

We are mostly riding on the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail. This trail winds from Mexico to Canada through California, Oregon and Washington. Like its name, it follows the mountain crests of the Cascade and Sierra Nevada ranges. We climbed out of the Llamoth River Basin and ventured deep into the Marble Mountain Wilderness on the crest, we traversed the rugged Salmon Mountains with "Top of the World "feelings.

We rode through the Russian Wilderness and the mighty Trinity Alps, Castle Crags Wilderness of Alpine Lakes and meandered along many miles of creeks and rivers. We traveled around 180 miles of rugged mountains from August 8th to September ninth (1998).

Last winter's El Nino has brought much damage to the trails we are riding. Many parts may take years to repair and some may never be fixed. Blown down trees, washouts and deep snow fields have made this year's expedition nearly impossible in some places. These same problems have caused us to make lengthy detours through extremely rugged and dangerous mountain trails. We have had to take several lay over days to rest and patch up the horses and gear. Each day is a challenge just to keep moving.

But the mountain vistas are spectacular. The wet and snowy winter has brought an abundance of wild flowers. With a late spring, we are viewing both spring and summer vegetation. The trails are so over grown with flowers in places that navigating can be a problem, especially in steep terrain. The horses have a difficult time staying on the trail. We have seen many unusual plants, including the carnivorous California Pitcher Plant.

The mountain temperatures have been perfect, with hot days and cool nights. Lots of "fun in the sun" days. Many wildlife friends visit each of our camps. Deer are incredibly friendly and can be bothersome at times. We have to build a fortress of gear around us at night. The salt-deprived deer will lick and chew anything that is salty. They have stolen our towels, wash cloths, chewed our saddles and reigns and licked our shirts until they were soaking wet. They get in terrible fights. They stand on their hind legs and box like kangaroos. You can hear the concussion of the blows as they strike each other. They start circling our camp as the sun goes down, waiting for us to sleep so they can invade our camp. They are very bold and will walk within a few feet of us. The bucks are in velvet and we watch them grazing with the horses.

Some of the other wild creatures who visit our camps are the PCT hikers. News travels quickly up and down the trail. Many hikers hear about us and wish to meet up with us on the trail. It is fun to hear all the trail stories and myths. It has been an enjoyable balance of socializing and solitude. As many as seven hikers and Forest Service trail workers have joined us at one time for dinner and playing music. Backpacker guitars along with flutes and drums are popular with the hikers. I am always quick to join in with my fiddle and harmonica. Sing-alongs are always precious memories.


Click for larger view

A large tree blocks the trail...


Rough going in some places...


They deer are very bold and will walk within a few feet of us.


We have to build a fortress of gear around us at night.

Click for larger view

Trail music......

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Equipment of the Expedition
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