Leaving the Sierra Nevada behind, we traveled east into the Mojave Desert. Our new horse, Chi Chester seemed to do real good in traffic. We decided to take a direct route and cross the Owens Dry Lake to save several miles. At one time, this lake was full of water but the Los Angeles Aqueduct diverts the water to Los Angeles, turning an area that was once orange groves into a metropolis. Halfway across the dry lake, nighttime was upon us in the spooky and dangerous landscape.

We made it safely to Keeler that night and stayed at Scott and Wanda Campbell's for a fantastic visit. Our next stop was the ghost town of Darwin, which is still inhabited with 50 or so residents. Howard, the caretaker of the mammoth Darwin Mine gave us an incredible tour. We walked nearly one mile into a 75-mile network of tunnels with 17 levels. At one time, Darwin had a population the same as Los Angeles and almost became California's state capitol. Outside of Darwin, we made camp at China Gardens Spring that has supported Koi fish since the 40's.

It was a long, steep decent to the Panamint Springs Resort in Death Valley. Following the wild burro trails along desert washes was the easiest route. We had a nice welcome and stayed at the campground equipped with hot showers. The Panamint Burger at the restaurant was the size of a dish plate and made two filling meals! Crossing Panamint Dry Lake in Death Valley was exciting as Air Force jets screeched through the air just above our heads. We waved frantically to the pilots and some would tilt their wings to say howdy. The F-117 Stealth Fighter also made an appearance at close range.

Crossing the Panamint Mountains was tough and it was a long decent into Stovepipe Wells. We watered the horses at the tanks set out for emergency radiator water and the few springs in the area. It was about 90 degrees and the horses were barely sweaty. We were met by hundreds of interested RV people, gathered for the Annual Death Valley 49'ers Encampment. So many people were interested in our lifestyle and unique entourage. This was a big help for us in our struggle to ride through the desert.

Karin's parents, Gary and Gwen Hauenstein, visited us in Death Valley and brought lots of water and feed for the horses and even delivered Glory, who had recovered from her stone bruise. We had a wonderful visit with long conversations over barbecued Santa Maria Tri-Tip! We shared a primitive campground with a group of RV people who are members of the Escapees Boondocker Group. This club finds fee-free places to gather to get away from it all. We would all meet every afternoon for happy hour, which is a sharing of treats, jokes and stories.

From the Funeral Mountains our route took us into Death Valley Junction where we visited the Historic Amargosa Opera House and Hotel. We camped a couple days to do some horseshoeing and had to guard our stock from a wild horse herd. A big black stallion had a close lookout over his pregnant mares and offspring. Marta Becket, a dancer-mime from New York, fell in love with the place after having to stop for a flat tire in the 60's, and has resurrected this railroad ghost town. She has performed there and painted murals on the interior walls for the last 35 years and is still on Pointe at 78!

Riding through Death Valley National Park was a tremendous challenge. It took several years of intense study to make this ride possible. The geology is incredible. The plant and animal life is like no place on earth. There are many restrictions, as it is a National Preserve, and the Park Rangers make this incredible desert wilderness very tame. The restrictions on horses are insane, even though the area was founded on horseback and the home of the 21 Mule Team Borax Works. This giant national park, formerly a monument, is also home to wild horses and burros!

Our Death Valley ride consisted of riding out of the Sierra Nevada Range, crossing the Inyo Range, then the Panamint Range and finally over the Funeral Mountains. We visited several mining sites and ghost towns and gathered much history from the locals and visitor centers. I have made it to the top of MT Whitney, the highest peak in North America, and to Badwater in Death Valley, the lowest point in North America, on horseback. Now, we wonder what big challenge lies ahead for Horseback America Expedition?