Karin visited us in the Blue Range just before we entered the Primitive Area. She brought supplies and steaks for the grill. A couple days before she showed up, a local resident gave me some homemade oak charcoal! We had a nice but short visit at our camp on the beautiful Blue River. To make her long trip worth it, I installed new brakes on her car.

Karin was so happy to be out in the mountains with the horses that she jumped on Starlite bareback, with nothing but a lead rope, to water the horses. As we left the river Starlite charged forward and bucked Karin onto the frozen ground. The fall was so violent that Karin was dazed and winded. We sat there for a bit because her ankle was injured and we were not sure what else was wrong. As I approached her, I noticed angry hornets flying around. They were swarming. It was cold and the hornets were lethargic. Then, I realized Karin was lying on top of a ground nest! I helped her up ASAP and we moved to a safer area before the hornets could organize themselves.

When we got back to my camp we figured out that on top of getting slammed to the ground, Karin also was stung three times on the bum. This actually has happened to Karin before, when we were traveling through the Sierra Wilderness, bringing back so many memories of when we were camping near the hot springs on the South Fork Kern River. At least now we know what caused Starlight to leap and buck so violently. She was probably being stung herself!

The ride into the Blue Range Primitive Area was along a rugged creek and a steep climb. The fall colors were beautiful. The ride would be very relaxing one minute and the next minute we would be hanging on a ledge. The horses were out of shape and not used to the mountains yet, making it even more exciting, especially in the frosty mornings when horses are pumped-up and flighty.

One narrow canyon we traversed had steep walls on both sides. We shared the canyon bottom with a bear which was evident by the many tracks and huge piles of bear poo. After seeing so many signs of Mr. Bear all morning, I said to myself, "I'm going to see a bear today." I kept looking ahead continuously, hoping we wouldn't encounter the big bruin on a ledge. My prediction was right on. While riding Starlight and scanning the area ahead, I saw a bear moving out of our way. Starlite was really spooky for the next three hours! Right after seeing the bear the trail was steep and there wasn't much room for the both of us. Then, out of nowhere, a huge hawk flew up out of the brush right in front of us, scaring the crap out of both myself and Starlight, who were both on "High Anxiety Bear Alert" status.

After crossing some grassy mesas, we left the Primitive Area and rode into the tiny town of Alma, New Mexico. We stayed long enough to purchase a few mandatory supplies at an expensive tourist market and then entered the Gila Wilderness.

It was a long ride from Alma and into the Gila Wilderness. I took my helmet off so I could wear my headphones and listen to my Spanish lessons on the MP3 player. We made it to the trailhead and as we started up a steep trail Coley wouldn't go over a log and pulled back. I had to lean way back in the saddle to keep a hold of the rope. It was dusk and dark, something spooked Starlight while I was leaning over, off-balance and she pitched me into a pile of rocks. I hit my head on the rocks and knocked my shoulder out of place. It took what seemed like forever for me to get my shoulder into place. I then had to get up on a rock in order to mount the horse.

We rode about three miles when I lost the trail with no daylight left. I slept on the saddle pads and tied the horses short. The next morning I could barely load the horses and get into the saddle. Coley once again wouldn't go over a log so I went behind her and swatted her on the rump. She flew over the log and hasn't had a log problem since.

It's been hard getting on Starlight because of her large girth (and mine) so I once I got off I would walk until I found a big rock or log to stand on to help me get into the saddle. I walked most of the way up Mogollon Baldy to nearly 11,000 feet. I called Karin when I was out of wind, thirsty, hurt and tired. I could only leave a message about what terrible shape I was in. Unfortunately, I was soon out-of-range and couldn't call again for almost 2 months, which worried her extremely.

It took three weeks for my shoulder to heal and during that time I only changed my camp location once. I spent one week on White Creek and two on the Middle Fork of the Gila River. There was good grass for the horses and lots of wildlife to view. Elk would come through both camps and at night a Mexican Spotted Owl kept me company with soft little hoots. A bear came through the White Creek Camp but I chased him off early.

Where I was in the wilderness is pretty much empty of people. I only talked to 4 hikers in three months. The grass was knee high to the horses. The horses were so amped-up from the good feed and lots of rest that they were always hard to handle for the first couple hours on the trail. Although, by now I know it's always an exciting ride right after a rest period.

After leaving my camp at Middle Fork we met Chris from Steamboat Springs Colorado; a true-to-life ski bum. I had only been on the trail for 15 minutes that morning and stopped by Chris's camp to get information on the trail. He said it was real tough so I just made camp and decided to check it out first on foot. Sometimes trails along a river can be very dangerous for stock.

I started bread dough for my trail pizza and luck provided us with a 23-inch brown trout. The trout was so big that we had to cut it into steaks in order to fire it on the grid. Chris worked as a grill cook and BBQ'd that trout to perfection. The pizza turned out incredibly good and we had the best camp meal I've experienced this year! I'm hungry now just thinking of it! Chris made an excellent host and the company reminded me that the shared experience of the trail is what this trip is all about.

I made it to the Middle Fork Gila River after a nice ride over a high mesa. There was a big drop with sharp switchbacks down what seemed to be an almost impossible decent. We camped at the edge of a large meadow upon a ledge right above the river. Exquisite! Next to the camp was a series of warm springs. It was cold and cloudy but I was able to wash in the warm springs. One magical pool was full of catfish and small bass. I would sit there for hours watching the fish in this natural aquarium.

We then traveled down river and found a nice place to camp, again, on the river. I was going to sleep under the stars but an unexpected storm rolled through in the middle of the night. I had to rush to set up the tent and get my gear under the tarp in the light rain. The local radio station from Albuquerque never tells you of any weather moving in. The weatherman basically sticks his head out his window and tells you what is going on today.

The next day it sprinkled on and off so I took a layover day. That night it rained very hard all night long without a break. I checked the level of the river occasionally to see if it was going to be necessary to move camp. In the morning the storm was over and I knew the river was going to be high. The river was a muddy brown, about 2 feet over normal and rising. I decided to wait until the river level dropped before leaving that camp.

The river didn't peak until three days after the storm because each little wash and creek that is normally dry is now draining into the river for a 30 mile span. There were big logs and debris floating downstream making it unsafe to travel. The trail crossed the river back and forth nearly 30 times in a mile. I was on a bench with a lot of feed for the horses so we just stayed.

A plus to this camp was Jordan Hot Spring, which was a 15-minute walk away. One of my favorite things in the world is a natural hot spring. I will travel at length out of my way to visit them. I would soak most of the day. It was cold and raining on and off for 5 days straight. This year is supposed to be a dry winter with La Nina effect; El Nino's opposite.

The hot spring was high above the river with a great view of the pinnacles and cliffs of the Gila River Gorge. The hot water flowed into a pool big enough to swim laps. There were maples and beautiful sycamore trees with scattered oaks, juniper and towering ponderosa pines. A grey squirrel kept me company as he gathered nuts and acorns even during the rain.

There was a grotto I could tuck into if it rained hard. It was warmer than the rest of the pool and lined with interesting moss and cave-like deposits. On the way to the pool I would be in a blue funk that normally goes with the wet, cold weather. After a long soak, I would leave that area energized and loving every bit of the wilderness experience including the cold, wet weather. It is really amazing what warm water can do for your mood.

After the river dropped about 2 foot I rode out to the Gila Cliff Dwellings. It was a slow ride crossing the river a hundred times and then climbing a narrow dry creek up to a mesa. I then traveled to Gila Hot Springs, NM, which is a small town with one store. I spent over a hundred dollars on a few basics like spaghetti, flour and camp fuel. Beware budgeted thru hikers! This is one of the most expensive resort stores I've ever visited. The owners weren't that friendly to me either...

We continued on to East Fork Gila and then down the Gila River toward Melody Hot Springs. The trail was washed over from the over-flooded river. The soil was deposits from the eroded volcanic mountains. The horses would sink deep in and the only feed seemed to be weeds. I wanted to get out of there quickly, so I changed my route and decided to ride up the East Fork Gila. The map showed the trail going down a private rode and I continued on.

One of the residents stopped, told the road was private and denied me access. I was forced to turn around and take an alternate route high up a mesa and back down to the river. It was steep and muddy was hard on the horses. Every time a horse would slip, I would curse the landowner who wouldn't let me by pass by this mess. It would have been a 15-minute ride on that private property, but the man didn't offer. I don't know why, he was interested in the trip and asking me a million questions. Maybe he was just not a very trusting man.

I did find some peace and solitude in a hidden, little-known area. I feel a tremendous sense of freedom and independence riding through these remote wildernesses. It took me back to when I lived in the mountains in Montana, and I spent the time thinking about some of the experiences I had back then.

When I was building my cabin, from materials I harvested from my own property in Montana, every Wednesday and Friday I would abstain from meat and the only food I would eat is that which I harvested from my own land. If I was too lazy to forage or couldn't find anything edible I would fast those days. Due to my own sloth, I probably lost 30 to 40 pounds during that time. I was leaner and felt stronger then. I think I will adopt that again.

After another big storm that dropped 6 inches of snow and an inch of rain on us, I left the cold Gila River. Finding the old trail was nearly impossible. I was just about to give up and was turning to go back, when I noticed what looked like a trail off to my left. It then looked like drainage from the steep cliff ahead. I then noticed a small unnatural line cut into the side of the cliff, ascending to the top---THIS was the trail!!! Holy shit, I started praying that Starlight would not start thinking about bears.

It was a steep scary ride. I walked most of the way on the 1000-foot climb that stretched half a mile. I was approaching an area where all I could see was blue sky. I was just thinking about getting off my mount and walking when a big red-tailed hawk appeared over the cliff, headed straight for us. Of course, as bad as a bear in this circumstance, the large bird scared Starlight. This in turn scared me, and I believe the hawk was startled because he seemed to be flapping his wings backwards to get away.

We came to the top of the mesa and it was difficult finding the trail which would appear and disappear. I figured I was spending too much time looking for the trail so I rode cross-country for two days. I was fortunate to find a spring and a great camp with good sun. The weather was cold but the sun was out allowing me to charge batteries, do laundry and take a hot solar shower.

At this time of the year, socks take two days to dry. With the low winter sun, it takes two solar showers filled halfway to heat up enough water for a good shower. There was good grass for the horses and they could be tied close to camp. I enjoy watching the horses eat, but many times I have to tether them away from camp.

I found some pottery from the ancient Mimbres Tribe which disappeared suddenly two centuries ago. The pottery is beautiful and quite intricate with black and white colors. Some of the nicest pottery I've found yet. The area also had arrowheads and flakes from rocks that were worked into arrowheads.

Another snowstorm dropped a lot of snow in the high country just in time for our Lord's birthday celebration of 2007. I tried to climb up to the Continental Divide in the Aldo Leopold Wilderness but the trail was icy and snow covered. I had to turn back. I was disappointed because I so wanted to climb in elevation and find a cell signal to call Karin, my friends and family to wish all a Merry Christmas. Instead I was forced to follow a rode through a valley that marked the boundaries of the Gila and Aldo Leopold Wildernesses heading North.

I spotted two Mexican Grey wolves that very day. I believe there were actually three more in the area due to the tracks I could identify in the snow. I saw a lot of elk, deer and turkeys, and a bunch of Cottontail rabbits. I rode along dirt roads for a week and a half. They were icy with hidden puddles. The horses were slipping all the time, making for some hard riding. I walked a lot here.

I finally made it to a town called Chloride. What looked to be a ghost town actually had a fire chief and when I met him, he stated that he might have a nice place for me to camp near his house. I told him I am a carpenter, plumber and electrician and he said he might have some work for me. He said he had to go get food in Winston. So, I headed out of my way to his property. It took him 4 hours for the ride to Winston and back, and during that time, he changed his mind about work. I was at his property when he got home and it was almost dark. He told me there would be no work for me and told me to camp in his lumberyard. There was barely any feed here for the horses on the day after Christmas. I was out of there early the next morning with no send off.

As I was riding off it started storming with freezing, blowing snow. The road out was over a narrow, windy paved rode through a mountain pass; not what l really like to ride on when it is snow covered and icy. On top of the road conditions, there were 18-wheeler logging trucks going back and forth from the mine. I had o time each curve between trucks so I would get hit or cause an accident. It was terribly stressful.

The day before, the Fire Chief had offered me a month's work at his place, we discussed what he needed done and everything. If I would not have taken the detour to his house, I would have ridden on and made it over the pass and to a camp before the storm hit. I wish he would have thought the decision through (or contacted his wife) before offering me the work. That would have saved me some harrowing riding.

Halfway to Cuchillo, I found a spring near an old, abandoned adobe house. A couple days later, some friendly hunters came by who were related to an old lady who had been born in that adobe house. They brought Sally out to meet me that Sunday. She brought some homemade tortillas she had made and carne asada. As we ate, she to told me a story she remembered of when she was a little girl. She learned how to make tortillas from her mother. One day when Sally was about 4, when she was watching her mother in the kitchen of the adobe house, she climbed up on a wooden chair and started rocking it back and forth. Her mother told her to quit because she would fall. She defied her mother and continued rocking, finally falling when the chair slipped on the dirt floor. Her mother gathered her up and gave her a not-so-hard swat on the bum. She was surprised when her mother immediately started laughing and pointed out to her the large, white handprint of flour on her pants.

Sally's relatives, the hunters, Manny and Henry would come up every few days to chat and bring me Sally had made for me. What great hospitality from this woman and her family! Even thought they no longer occupied the homestead, they were consummate hosts, providing for my sustenance while visiting them. To think of it, I have yet to meet a hunter that did not share whatever he had with me. Sally and her family are a prime example of community good-will that I enjoy so much when I come across it and when I do, I cannot help but pray to God in thanksgiving.

I stayed for two weeks at the adobe house, waiting out two more storms. I heard there was a good spring in Dry Willow Creek. I moved my camp there and found swarms of birds eating and drinking a beautiful oasis with great views of the mountains. There was a man-made wishing well full of water, mining ruins nearby and I could almost see all the way down to the White Sands Missile Range.

Record cold hit the area just about the time I was hoping for global warming! Snowmobilers were lost for a couple days in the mountains nearby. A snowboarder has been missing for two weeks now, and 5-6 people died of exposure with this viscous cold snap. It got down to single digits where I was.

The adobe house was a place I took some time to relax. There was lots of sunshine for the solar panels between the storms. My tent warms up to 70 degrees in direct sunlight, even when it is 20 degrees outside. It is like a green house. I love the effect when the sun is high because sometimes I can stop and watch DVDs inside the tent with the solar panels charging the batteries from outside the door.

I'm nearly out of food now and had been relying mostly on foraging wild food. Boy, it gets to be slim pickins in the desert. I lost about 30 or more pounds at this point since October. I felt great, but still want to loose 30 more pounds. There are so many advantages to being fit on the trail, including keeping the horses happy to be carrying less weight!

Recently, I have been cresting the top of a large hill nearby daily to get reception on the cell phone. I ordered a big box of food supplies from Karin that will last another three or four months. I have tasks Karin will be performing for me in order to accomplish some of my ideas. I'll be out of coverage with the website until the beginning of Fall. In the meantime, Karin will write my updates from the brief conversations we will have by cell.

So long until Fall.