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June 10, 2004:

After a lengthy stop in the Expedition, we are once again back on the trail! Karin had to have thyroid surgery and half of her lobe removed. She came through that well and is excited to be back in the saddle again. We rented a cute little cottage in beautiful Sedona, Arizona for a few months. Sedona is a very beautiful place that has drawn many gurus and new age, metaphysical-type people. The area is also home of several so-called vortexes. Many shops sell new age jewelry, art and there are palm readers, massage centers and meditation temples galore.

Sedona is a very expensive place to live and home of many wealthy people. With both of us working, it was impossible to get ahead with our mediocre paying jobs and high rent. I did manage to gather enough money to purchase a new mount. He is a Quarterhorse/Clydesdale mix and his name is Number Three. He is a big hombre who found his home in central Arizona after leaving his birthplace in Sonora, Mexico. This south of the border equine has a body full of scars to tell a story of his hard work on a cattle ranch and many fights with other geldings.

The temperature is in the 100’s as we ride down the Verde River en route to higher and cooler ground. The horses are doing very well in the heat. They barely sweat and seem to have a lot of energy. We are riding slowly and no more than 10 miles a day. We have found some nice places to swim the horses in the river. They all love the water. Much of the National Forest is closed due to fires and fire danger making the tough job of finding a route tougher. It is so nice to be riding again after leaving bad jobs with low pay, that we are eager to greet any demands we will encounter on the trail.


Riding down the Verde River turned out to be a tougher job than expected. The gentle River bank turned into a deep gorge pushing us up to 6000 feet in elevation. Temperatures were soaring to 100 degrees with 3% humidity. It was so dry that the horses’ hair was dry even though they were working very hard. The trails were old and had very little human use recently. The trail was nothing but a path of sharp volcanic stone at times, making us ramble along at 1 mph. To keep the horses from getting exhausted during a workout like this we give them breathers as often as the steep terrain will allow.

We found water in the Cedar Bench Wilderness but ended up at Lower Cedar Bench rather than the Upper. Cattle graze this area during the winter and cut large trails through the rugged terrain. This makes it next to impossible to track the Water Trail we were following. We were forced to backtrack on a cattle trail then proceed east with no trail in order to intersect our route. We not only found the trail but a beautiful string on the Cedar Bench that allowed us to look as far away as the San Francisco Peaks in Flagstaff. We could see the Verde River, the whole Verde Valley, the Red Rocks of Sedona and the towering San Francisco Peaks all in one view. It was breathtaking and reminded us of our cute little cottage in Sedona with the beautiful view of the red rocks.

From our camp at Cold Spring on the Cedar Bench we had an arduous decent to the Verde River. The trail we were following originated circa 1870 and gets used less and less each year. At times we had to walk the horses downhill on a very steep grade with shale as footing. We were praying that the two packhorses in the rear would have the very best footing. After another hard day for us and the horses, we were fortunate to find one of the most fantastic camps. We settled on a grassy shelf right on the river next to a big pool.

We were just 100 feet from the ruins of the old Hot Springs Resort in Childs, AZ. The hot springs are very nice and developed from when the resort was standing between 1922-1962, and was less than a quarter mile from our camp. This old resort had 22 rooms and was known as a secluded retreat for Al Capone during his flight from the law. We were camped at the main trail entrance to the springs and had visits from interesting people at all times of the day and night! We had a deep lake right at camp full of small mouth bass and catfish. This river made lake was perfect for swimming the horses.

The next and last place on the Verde River for us was Childs campground. Childs attracts many different types of people all during the week. Some are transient-type and some are families from Phoenix. We met people there from all over the country. Childs turned out to be a highly social place and we decided to stop for a couple days and join in the fun. Folks would visit our camp and bring coolers full of food and beverages for a fun evening. We met some great new friends at this magical place and will continue trying to meet up again on the trail. As we rode up the steep rode away from the Verde River, good memories were soaring as we looked down to Childs and the big sky view of the rugged country we conquered.

June 19, 2004:

Riding down the Verde River turned out to be a tougher job than expected. The gentle River bank turned into a deep gorge pushing us up to 6000 feet in elevation. Temperatures were soaring to 100 degrees with 3% humidity. It was so dry that the horses’ hair was dry even though they were working very hard. The trails were old and had very little human use recently. The trail was nothing but a path of sharp volcanic stone at times, making us ramble along at 1 mph. To keep the horses from getting exhausted during a workout like this we give them breathers as often as the steep terrain will allow.

We found water in the Cedar Bench Wilderness but ended up at Lower Cedar Bench rather than the Upper. Cattle graze this area during the winter and cut large trails through the rugged terrain. This makes it next to impossible to track the Water Trail we were following. We were forced to backtrack on a cattle trail then proceed east with no trail in order to intersect our route. We not only found the trail but a beautiful string on the Cedar Bench that allowed us to look as far away as the San Francisco Peaks in Flagstaff. We could see the Verde River, the whole Verde Valley, the Red Rocks of Sedona and the towering San Francisco Peaks all in one view. It was breathtaking and reminded us of our cute little cottage in Sedona with the beautiful view of the red rocks.

From our camp at Cold Spring on the Cedar Bench we had an arduous decent to the Verde River. The trail we were following originated circa 1870 and gets used less and less each year. At times we had to walk the horses downhill on a very steep grade with shale as footing. We were praying that the two packhorses in the rear would have the very best footing. After another hard day for us and the horses, we were fortunate to find one of the most fantastic camps. We settled on a grassy shelf right on the river next to a big pool.

We were just 100 feet from the ruins of the old Hot Springs Resort in Childs, AZ. The hot springs are very nice and developed from when the resort was standing between 1922-1962, and was less than a quarter mile from our camp. This old resort had 22 rooms and was known as a secluded retreat for Al Capone during his flight from the law. We were camped at the main trail entrance to the springs and had visits from interesting people at all times of the day and night! We had a deep lake right at camp full of small mouth bass and catfish. This river made lake was perfect for swimming the horses.

The next and last place on the Verde River for us was Childs campground. Childs attracts many different types of people all during the week. Some are transient-type and some are families from Phoenix. We met people there from all over the country. Childs turned out to be a highly social place and we decided to stop for a couple days and join in the fun. Folks would visit our camp and bring coolers full of food and beverages for a fun evening. We met some great new friends at this magical place and will continue trying to meet up again on the trail. As we rode up the steep rode away from the Verde River, good memories were soaring as we looked down to Childs and the big sky view of the rugged country we conquered.

July, 2004:
 
The Willow Fire had grown over 120,000 acres, which prompted the closure of the Tonto National Forest we were in. On the way up the steep mountain to Strawberry, Arizona, an employee of the historical Irving Power Plant gave us a neat tour. A flume of water flows into this Plant, then down to the Childs Power Plant. I found a trap door into the eight-foot diameter flume and floated down to the Sterh Lake Reservoir. The flume actually went into a mountainside as a tunnel. It was pitch black and no way to go back after climbing in. Now this was scary!


We made it to the small town of Strawberry, which was our first place to buy supplies since Camp Verde. We stayed a couple days at the Strawberry Mountain Stables where Melma, the owner, trailered us about 25 miles to the Mogollon Rim in the Cocinino National Forest, which was open. The Rim runs most of Northern Arizona into New Mexico. The view from the massive fault overlooks several mountains and valleys, including the Phoenix Valley. There were excellent places to camp with lush grass and springs that were still flowing.


This is the Monsoon season so there has been a lot of rain and unpredictable lightening. We made friends with the fire watchdogs, Ron and Harold, who work for the National Forest. Ron and his wife met Karin and I when we rode through the High Sierra! Two short storms started 29 fires in our area! We are following the General Crook Trail along the edge of the Mogollan Rim. West of the rim is a 1000 foot cliff and to the east are treacherous canyons. The edge of the rim is fairly flat, which is the reason the general chose the brink of the rim for his famous road.


General Crook was big on making roads and this was his route from Santa Fe to Camp Verde. This is Apache country and full of exciting history. We stayed at a spooky battlefield during its 122 anniversary. General Crook came close to loosing his life here. There are many old mile marker posts and old blazes on trees marking the trail. Cabins and gravesites also share the historical National Scenic Trail. We met the author of a recently published book who gave us a signed copy of his very useful book on the General Crook Trail. This not only had helpful topo maps but also filled with the incredible history of the trail.


The Monsoon rain has brought a lot of edible plants to life. We’ve been eating wild onions in soups and a good topping for stovetop pizza. Our healthy salads have: mountain sorrel, dandelion, Wyoming paintbrush, wild mint, wild onion and curly dock with balsamic vinaigrette. Vitamin rich cooked greens are plantain, wild mustard, curly dock and amaranth. Northern Arizona is rich in both Flora and Fauna. Some of the animals seen so far are Black Bear, Ringtail, Kiabob and Albers Squirrel, Bald Eagles, Elk and Mule Deer. We rode up on a cow and bull elk in velvet. They looked at us for a minute or two, and then proceeded to graze. I was able to get within 30 foot of the pair, which was probably past the safety zone.
 
August, 2004:
 
August was a great month on the Mogollon Rim where the horses enjoyed the lush grass while we took in the beautiful scenery and rich history. We ventured deep into the Chediski/Rodeo fire that had burned over 400,000 acres and consumed hundreds of houses. We pretty much had the whole area to our self since most of the recreationalist escape the hot valley floor to visit the mountain lakes outside of the burn. Most people see a dismal burned out disaster but we see the beauty of the rejuvenation of the forest. There are more wildflowers than anywhere I have been with thick lush grass and beautiful plants thriving off of the ash from the 2002 fire.


Quality water is a challenge to find on the rim. Stock tanks are all full with the good drenching from the monsoon, but these are muddy making it hard to filter water and to wash clothes. One such lake had such a high concentration of elk urine that it was impossible to drink. Karin was working on mixing kool-aid, while complaining that it tasted rank. I figured I would take a big drink and get as much down before the taste caught up. When it did, I started gagging because the water didn’t just taste badly, it was elk urine. I can still taste this horrid flavor in my mouth and we can smell signs of elk everywhere in the forest. We seemed alone in this massive National Forest. The Rim also bordered the massive San Carlos Apache Reservation.


A friendly resident of Forest Lakes offered me much needed work at his cabin. His first cabin in Show Low was one of the fatalities of the Chedeski/Rodeo fire. We found a nice place to camp on a beautiful pond full of small mouth bass, but the Sheriff ran us off saying that we were not allowed to work off of the National Forest and return to camp. Well we fixed him; we rode to the next county and found a remote area with a huge meadow, and creek that was drying up, to camp. Karin would watch camp when Denis would pick me up to work. The plan was to work for a few days and return to camp. Denis and his wonderful wife Sherri are true Angels in helping us succeed the rigors of the expedition.


Soon after a couple days of work, Karin had rode up the hill to get cell phone coverage to call me. Her voice was panicked with the sound of horses squealing and fighting in the background. A wild mustang had wandered into camp and tried taking our four mares as his own. He was very aggressive and impossible to run off. The beautiful buckskin mustang had badly infected knees from an injury so we decided to catch him for a cowboy who had a permit to wrangle the wild horses in the area. Catching the horses was difficult. He broke loose twice but still returned to our mares. Our new gelding, Number Three, decided he had enough and ran off for several days and returned to a previous camp.

This is an incredible story, worthy of a new chapter, will soon be posted on our website. The wild mustang has incredible conformation and disposition. The buckskin stud has all of the signs of being a Spanish Mustang. He has the typical well-rounded crop and markings. We decided to breed the mares because of his incredible qualities. The foals, if the breedings take, will be born next August and will be up for sale after they are well trained and weaned January 2005. We plan the birth of the foals in Arkansas or a surrounding state that has enough backcountry for us to produce another Horseback America Trail Baby!

November, 2004:

Karin and I were off to New Mexico through the hite Mountains of Arizona when the weather turned bad. Our computer crashed and died and we bought a used one that was supposed to be full of everything. It wasn't and we were stuck with, basically junk. Karin stopped to upgrade the computer while I rode off alone through the mountains.

Record snows blanketed the trails and roads making the ride extremely difficult. This area is not like California where you can ride to lower elevations to escape the snow. At one point, I was get very worried because of the remote areas and lack of feed. The horses were able to dig through the snow for feed and luckily the grass had lots of protein.

At one camp, I thought I was hearing things. It sounded like a pack of wolves! Later I found out that the area has introduced, Mexican Grey Wolves. Winter camping was tough as the tent was buried in snow and ice and packing up was difficult in thick gloves. Ropes were frozen and snaps and buckles had to be thawed out before use.

Finally, I made it to civilization at Apache Creek, New Mexico. It was not much of a town but had one friendly country store. I made it to Aragon int time for Sunday Mass at one of the most beautiful chapels I ever seen. The Priest was very nice and he blessed the Expedition. I spent Thanksgiving alone in frozen tundra. I was listening to the radio about football and turkey dinner, so the first thing I bought was a turkey TV dinner that I cooked on a grill.


December, 2004:

The snow and cold continued as I worked my way to the Plains of San Augustin. I notice a rub staring on Number Three's withers so I adjusted his pads. There was no hair loss but it was working on it. I rode a day and the rub was starting to swell so I decided to walk half the miles. We covered about fifteen miles and I took a lay over at the Very Large Array. This is the worlds largest Radio Telescope in the world.

The Telescope is actually several satellite looking dishes where several movies were made, including Contact, with Jodie Foster. All the dishes would move together. They were spread out over the plains about one mile apart on railroad tracks. This was one of the most amazing places I have ever been. I stopped for 10 days to heal up Number Threes withers.

January, 2005:

I left the Very Large Array to ride towards the Rio Grande River walking. After 13 miles, I made camp and just the weight of the saddle made Number Three's withers swell so I stopped for another ten days. It was a beautiful over the extremely lonesome plains. I kept singing a song to myself, Burry me not, on the lone prairie! I was doing water in buckets and taking cold showers with temperature below freezing.

Storms were rolling in every 3 to 4 days. This was a very lonely place. It was cowboy country and the cattlemen would wave but everybody sticks to their self. I talked to probably 5 people in two months. Things got lonelier as Christmas approached. I was listening to a lot of world band on the shortwave receiver and 40 meter single sideband.

I decided to walk out for New Years and made it to historical Magdalena. This was a very friendly town. I went to a cafe and met a lot of the local cowboys and picked up work. Number Three is not going to work out on the trip. His withers are totally OK now but he is not developed for a long ride. So I amgoing to pick up work and find a new horse. The weather is still very bad anyhow making things very difficult on the trail.

Winter weather had taken its toll on the Expedition. Number Three, our latest new horse, cannot physically handle long miles necessary to travel in this climate and terrain. Though I stop often to rest, Number Three's withers were swelling up. He has done well up to this point and I found a great home for him. I will of course, loose about $1300.00 on this horse.

I went back to the Sedona area in Arizona to manage a ranch. It is a lot of work. There are 36 horses; five are stallions. I will be working for a spell to get my computer operating and get a new horse. When I accomplish this goal. I will get trailered back to the Continental Divide of New Mexico. Winters are harsh and it is nice to get out of the snow and stay in a real house. Taking these breaks keeps us from getting burned out on traveling.

February 17, 2005

I'm settled in to take some time off from riding to replace the horse I recently sold. Taking time off is how we support the trip and get a break from the rigors of the trail. This is a great way to become part of a community and to meet the people; some interesting ones at that! The horses also get a break so that when we do return to riding, we are all fresh to apreaciate life on the
road to its fullest.

I am working on an Appaloosa breeding ranch now with over 30 mares and 5 stallions. It is close to the Montezuma Well. This is a huge hole in the ground that collapsed above an underground river. The water from the ground is a warm spring. Montezuma Well is next to Beaver Creek that is now a river because of heavy rain. The large opening is also lined with cliff dwellings from the ancient Sinagua Tribe.

Water from the well runs out of a rock wall near Beaver Creek and into a channel that runs right to the ranch I am working at. The water is then used to irrigate a large pasture. It is amazing going out in the morning to change the valves and stick my hands into the warm steaming water.

 

April, 2005

Springtime is once again in the air making us burn with anticipation to get back in the saddle again. Well there are a few obstacles preventing an immediate departure from Arizona. Mother Nature has a snowy grip on the upper elevations where we will begin the next leg of the journey. The trail should be clear by June.

This part of the trip, if all works as planned, will take is above the timberline where we will spend a summer in the Colorado rockies. This is some of the most rugged country in the world and has the most 14 teeners (14k foot Mountains) in North America. Most of the trail is above 12,000 feet with parts above 13,000.

Riding off the Divide to re-supply could be a three-day decent to a resort and an arduous climb to return. Therefore we are drying lots of food that not only saves money but also cuts the bulk and weight in half allowing us to carry more food. We have Smoke and Butterfly in full training. Smoke has just been gelded and responding well to training

October, 2005

The Expedition is in high gear getting everything ready to travel. We are making some major changes in the packing system to travel lighter. The next leg of the trip will have less layovers and more riding. There will not be the long layovers so a lot of the gear used in more of a wilderness survival mode will not be needed and stored for later.

With the additional riding, we plan to do much more walking to prevent saddle sores. So along with shaving pounds of the gear, we are shaving pounds off the beltline and working out to get in shape for this next section. It is always exciting getting ready for the next leg of the trip and making changes.

Update on Heber horses: On September 22, 2005, the Court re-set the date for the preliminary injunction hearing to December 9, 2005 at the request of our attorneys in the Federal District Court for Arizona-Phoenix court. The Court also extended the TRO prohibiting the FS from awarding a contract to capture horses in Apache-Sitgreaves or capturing horses in Apache-Sitgreaves. So, the horses are safe right now. I don't think anyone can touch them, the FS, the Apache Tribe or anyone.

May - June, 2005

This horseback odyssey may be presently stopped but the Expedition is still growing. I?m working on a large horse ranch caring for 36 horses and building a studio in Sedona. Karin is teaching at a Montessori School and driving a School bus as we work to support the trip. Taking time off not only allows us to finance the trip but to rebuild the packing system while adding innovations
for the next leg of the trip.

We have added to our camera equipment with new microphones, filters and lenses.
Taking time off from the trail also gives us a chance to dehydrate food. The dehydrator is running 7 days a week as we dry spinach, green beans, mushrooms, strawberries, broccoli, bananas, onions, and applesauce for a some good eating on the trail. The main reason for stopping is to replace Number Three who was sold to a family in Alpine Arizona.

What goes on with the Expedition when we take a time out? Well, a lot of hard work and dedication. When riding, we think of ways to make life easier on the trail so when we do stop, we can make the changes. Some of the modifications this year included arranging the gear in different color-coded coolers to make up specialized kits. For instance, the red cooler holds blank cd's, Mini DV's, micro cassettes, MD disks and DVD's. The purple cooler holds the two-way ham radios, short wave, weather radio, gameboy, etc. The nylon coolers also protect the gear. We have coolers with health supplies, repair kits and all our food is packed in them also.

Not everything is hard work. We play tennis at a beautiful lighted court, I play hockey three to four days a week and we golf occasionally. We also go swimming in Oak Creek, Beaver Creek and the Verdi River along with tubing, Kayaking and rafting. It is important to keep in shape to contend with the demands on the trail. Two of our mares are pregnant but we have two to ride and may be riding the mustang one of these days. It is hard for me to stop more than a month and all I can think about is riding the country!

 

August 30, 2006

We are in full preparation to getting back on the trail. After such a long stop there is an overwhelming amount of work to get organized and packed. New gear has been purchased while some gear is no longer a part of the Expedition. The biggest goal is not to overload the horses. Pages are cut from books and any extra weight that can be deleted will be deleted. Getting the food ready is also a big choir. We will travel through the wilderness so getting everything we need for two months takes a lot of planning. Winters come early in the mountains and we will be in Arizona's most remote mountain wilderness later than planned.

Our innovative system is difficult to get started but once in order is the fastest in the world and runs smoothly. The equipment can be unpacked and packed in breakneck speed and a horse can be loaded with 200 pounds of gear in less than a minute. It takes a month to get fully organized but even then we must make changes, as food is eaten or after re-supplying, or to change with the seasons. The pack boxes are packed within a pound of each side. A perfectly balance pack animal can run at a full gallop with a loose cinch.

August 15, 2006

The last time we made a major upgrade to the Expedition was in Oregon in 1995. I'm finishing up building a house while Karin works with children in the local area. After such an extensive layover, it will be a fresh start when we get back in the saddle. Unfortunately, the summer is coming to an end, which means cold winter travel ahead. The plan so far is to ride out through the White Mountains when the leaves change colors, then through the badlands of New Mexico. Much challenge lies ahead!

We have upgraded all the electronics with a powerful Macintosh G4 along with a spare. We also have bright LED lighting, a larger solar array and new video/audio equipment to help document the trip. One of the most important pieces of equipment is our Alpha Smart word processor. This is a full size keyboard with an LCD display running Palm OS. This word processor uses about as much power as a transistor radio and will be a great asset to our writing. We also have much needed top-of-the-line sleeping bags for winter and purchased an expensive ?Equipedic? saddle pad with memory foam and a high tech cooling system.

September 8, 2007

What a change to go from the dry, shrubby desert of Camp Verde into the White Mountains of Arizona. I camped at one site that had so many elk they kept me awake at night with their bugling. You know you're in the mountains when elk keep you awake at night.

I met up with some great, old friends of mine, the Harpers, in Alpine. I was able to camp on the National Forest right next to the border of their property and do some important work on my pack system. The Harper family has five kids who kept me busy with pony rides, tours of my gear and answering a barrage of questions. We even had a little time for some pinecone baseball. I gave a presentation to the students and staff at Alpine Elementary School, a neat mountain school with a  little over 40 students.

Karin came up from the desert to visit for a couple days. She took four girls out riding on our horses and old #3, who found a permanent home in comfort at the Harper's when I sold him to this family two years back. He was happy to see our mares again. Karin and I had breakfast at the Bear Wallow Cafe and scouted out my planned trip along the Blue River. Later we went up to see the flaming Quaking Aspens at Hanagan Meadow.

If anyone out there ever makes it into Alpine, AZ: the Bear Wallow Cafe is a must see.  They have a large menu, enormous servings and their meals are truly cooked with pride. They have the freshest, most colorful salad bar that you wouldn't expect from a small town cafe. OK, now I'm hungry again thinking of that great meal! I guess I'll go have a handful of dried fruit and nuts to stop my stomach from churning.

October 7, 2007

I'm Finely "back in the saddle again." Not only back in the saddle but back in the high mountains where I will stay until the snow forces us out. There is still some good riding weather left here in the Southwest.

Karin is going to stay behind in Arizona to help with promoting the  Expedition and helping with our field guide. She may return as soon as  next spring or possibly longer if need be. It's very hard to be separated but we both know it is for the best for now.

Karin and I will stay in touch by cell phone, telephone, and email. I  will be sending her word documents along with recordings for the book.  I have a digital voice recorder, which records in MP3 files. I can  burn a disk and send to Karin.

I'm traveling with Belknap, Coley and Starlite. Karin is planning to  breed the mares to produce a couple more trail horses. butterfly is  two now and may replace coley who is reaching her retirement. Is it  possible life can go on without Coley?

October 22, 2007

I rode off to my first camp after the long lay-over in Alpine. I had a very nice departure as the Harper family waved and took pictures. They; even opened gates for me along the way so I wouldn't have to dismount off of big ol' Starlight. For the first 5 miles, I was able to stay in communication with them on their family radios until I lost reception. The scenery was spectacular as I made my way down into the wild Blue River country. The trees are changing color now and squirrels are busy running about, cutting cones to prepare for the approaching winter snow.

For such a long time off the trail, everything went perfect. This was my first time out with Starlight as my mount and she did great. She did everything I asked of her and was so fast I had to slow her down so the pack horses wouldn't gig. Starlight is a half Belgium Draft horse and half Tobiano Paint. She's a beautiful, little tank.

My campsite on the Blue River is very nice and relaxing. I'm taking couple days off just to recover from the big push of getting back on the trail. I had a good 12 hour sleep last night and today I think I will write a little and sleep some more. I love to just sit and listen to the birds, with the leaves falling and the gurgle of the river flowing by and.....z zz zzz zzzz ZZZZZZZZZZZZ...

October 2007 Update:

Karin visited us in the Blue Range just before we entered the  Primitive Area. She brought supplies and steaks for the grill. A  couple days before she showed up, a local resident gave me some  homemade oak charcoal! We had a nice but short visit at our camp on  the beautiful Blue River. To make her long trip worth it, I installed  new brakes on her car.

Karin was so happy to be out in the mountains with the horses that she  jumped on Starlite bareback, with nothing but a lead rope, to water  the horses. As we left the river Starlite charged forward and bucked  Karin onto the frozen ground.

The fall was so violent that Karin was dazed and winded. We sat there  for a bit because her ankle was injured and we were not sure what else  was wrong. As I approached her, I noticed angry hornets flying around, they were swarming. It was cold and the hornets were lethargic. Then, I realized Karin was lying on top of a ground nest! I helped her up  ASAP and we moved to a safer area before the hornets could organize themselves.

When we got back to my camp we figured out that on top of getting  slammed to the ground, Karin also was stung three times on the bum. This actually has happened to Karin before, when we were traveling  through the Sierra Wilderness, bringing back so many memories of when  we were camping near the hot springs on the South Fork Kern River. At  least now we know what caused Starlight to leap and buck so violently.  She was probably being stung herself!


Late October 2007 Update:

The ride into the Blue Range Primitive Area was along a rugged creek  and a steep climb. The fall colors were beautiful. The ride would be  very relaxing one minute and the next minute we would be hanging on a ledge. The horses were out of shape and not used to the mountains yet,  making it even more exciting, especially in the frosty mornings when  horses are pumped-up and flighty.

One narrow canyon we traversed had steep walls on both sides. We shared the canyon bottom with a bear which was evident by the many  tracks and huge piles of bear poo. After seeing so many signs of Mr. Bear all morning, I said to myself, "I'm going to see a bear today." I  kept looking ahead continuously, hoping we wouldn't encounter the big  bruin on a ledge.

My prediction was right on. While riding Starlight and scanning the  area ahead, I saw a bear moving out of our way. Starlite was really  spooky for the next three hours! Right after seeing the bear the trail  was steep and there wasn't much room for the both of us. Then, out of  nowhere, a huge hawk flew up out of the brush right in front of us,  scaring the crap out of both myself and Starlight, who were both on  'High Anxiety Bear Alert' status.

After crossing some grassy mesas, we left the Primitive Area and rode  into the tiny town of Alma, New Mexico. We stayed long enough to  purchase a few mandatory supplies at an expensive tourist market and  then entered the Gila Wilderness.


Early November 2007 Update:

It was a long ride from Alma and into the Gila Wilderness. I took my  helmet off so I could wear my headphones and listen to my Spanish  lessons on the MP3 player. We made it to the trailhead and as we  started up a steep trail Coley wouldn't go over a log and pulled back.  I had to lean way back in the saddle to keep a hold of the rope.

It was dusk and dark, something spooked Starlight while I was leaning  over, off-balance and she pitched me into a pile of rocks. I hit my  head on the rocks and knocked my shoulder out of place. It took what  seemed like forever for me to get my shoulder into place. I then had  to get up on a rock in order to mount the horse.

We rode about three miles when I lost the trail with no daylight left.  I slept on the saddle pads and tied the horses short. The next morning  I could barely load the horses and get into the saddle. Coley once again wouldn't go over a log so I went behind her and swatted her on  the rump. She flew over the log and hasn't had a log problem since.

It?s been hard getting on Starlight because of her large girth (and  mine) so I once I got off I would walk until I found a big rock or log  to stand on to help me get into the saddle. I walked most of the way  up Mogollon Baldy to nearly 11,000 feet. I called Karin when I was out  of wind, thirsty, hurt and tired. I could only leave a message about  what terrible shape I was in. Unfortunately, I was soon out-of-range  and couldn't call again for almost 2 months, which worried her  extremely.

It took three weeks for my shoulder to heal and during that time I  only changed my camp location once. I spent one week on White Creek  and two on the Middle Fork of the Gila River. There was good grass for  the horses and lots of wildlife to view. Elk would come through both  camps and at night a Mexican Spotted Owl kept me company with soft  little hoots. A bear came through the White Creek Camp but I chased  him off early.


Late November 2007 Update:


Where I was in the wilderness is pretty much empty of people. I only  talked to 4 hikers in three months. The grass was knee high to the horses. The horses were so amped-up from the good feed and lots of  rest that they were always hard to handle for the first couple hours on the trail. Although, by now I know it's always an exciting ride  right after a rest period.

After leaving my camp at Middle Fork we met Chris from Steamboat Springs Colorado; a true-to-life ski bum. I had only been on the trail  for 15 minutes that morning and stopped by Chris's camp to get  information on the trail. He said it was real tough so I just made  camp and decided to check it out first on foot. Sometimes trails along  a river can be very dangerous for stock.

I started bread dough for my trail pizza and luck provided us with a 23-inch brown trout. The trout was so big that we had to cut it into steaks in order to fire it on the grid. Chris worked as a grill cook and BBQ'd that trout to perfection. The pizza turned out incredibly good and we had the best camp meal I?ve experienced this year! I'm hungry now just thinking of it! Chris made an excellent host and the  company reminded me that the shared experience of the trail is what  this trip is all about.


Early December 2007 Update:


I made it to the Middle Fork Gila River after a nice ride over a high  mesa. There was a big drop with sharp switchbacks down what seemed to be an almost impossible decent. We camped at the edge of a large  meadow upon a ledge right above the river. Exquisite! Next to the camp  was a series of warm springs. It was cold and cloudy but I was able to  wash in the warm springs. One magical pool was full of catfish and  small bass. I would sit there for hours watching the fish in this  natural aquarium.

We then traveled down river and found a nice place to camp, again, on  the river. I was going to sleep under the stars but an unexpected  storm rolled through in the middle of the night. I had to rush to set up the tent and get my gear under the tarp in the light rain. The  local radio station from Albuquerque never tells you of any weather 
moving in. The weatherman basically sticks his head out his window and  tells you what is going on today.

The next day it sprinkled on and off so I took a layover day. That  night it rained very hard all night long without a break. I checked  the level of the river occasionally to see if it was going to be  necessary to move camp. In the morning the storm was over and I knew  the river was going to be high. The river was a muddy brown, about 2 feet over normal and rising. I decided to wait until the river level  dropped before leaving that camp.

The river didn?t peak until three days after the storm because each  little wash and creek that is normally dry is now draining into the river for a 30 mile span. There were big logs and debris floating downstream making it unsafe to travel. The trail crossed the river  back and forth nearly 30 times in a mile. I was on a bench with a lot  of feed for the horses so we just stayed.

A plus to this camp was Jordan Hot Spring, which was a 15-minute walk  away. One of my favorite things in the world is a natural hot spring. I will travel at length out of my way to visit them. I would soak most of the day. It was cold and raining on and off for 5 days straight.  This year is supposed to be a dry winter with La Nina effect; El  Nino's opposite.

The hot spring was high above the river with a great view of the  pinnacles and cliffs of the Gila River Gorge.  The hot water flowed  into a pool big enough to swim laps. There were maples and beautiful sycamore trees with scattered oaks, juniper and towering ponderosa pines. A grey squirrel kept me company as he gathered nuts and acorns even during the rain.

There was a grotto I could tuck into if it rained hard. It was warmer than the rest of the pool and lined with interesting moss and  cave-like deposits. On the way to the pool I would be in a blue funk that normally goes with the wet, cold weather. After a long soak, I  would leave that area energized and loving every bit of the wilderness  experience including the cold, wet weather. It is really amazing what warm water can do for your mood?


Mid December 2007 Update


After the river dropped about 2 foot I rode out to the Gila Cliff Dwellings. It was a slow ride crossing the river a hundred times and then climbing a narrow dry creek up to a mesa. I then traveled to Gila Hot Springs, NM, which is a small town with one store.

I spent over a hundred dollars on a few basics like spaghetti, flour and camp fuel. Beware budgeted thru hikers! This is one of the most expensive resort stores I've ever visited. The owners weren't that friendly to me either.

We continued on to East Fork Gila and then down the Gila River toward  Melody Hot Springs. The trail was washed over from the over-flooded  river. The soil was deposits from the eroded volcanic mountains. The horses would sink deep in and the only feed seemed to be weeds. I  wanted to get out of there quickly, so I changed my route and decided  to ride up the East Fork Gila. The map showed the trail going down a private rode and I continued on.

One of the residents stopped, told the road was private and denied me access. I was forced to turn around and take an alternate route high up a mesa and back down to the river. It was steep and muddy was hard  on the horses. Every time a horse would slip, I would curse the landowner who wouldn't let me by pass by this mess. It would have been  a 15-minute ride on that private property, but the man didn't offer. I  don?t know why, he was interested in the trip and asking me a million  questions. Maybe he was just not a very trusting man.

I did find some peace and solitude in a hidden, little-known area. I  feel a tremendous sense of freedom and dependence riding through  these remote wildernesses. It took me back to when I lived in the  mountains in Montana, and I spent the time thinking about some of the  experiences I had back then.

When I was building my cabin, from materials I harvested from my own  property in Montana, every Wednesday and Friday I would abstain from  meat and the only food I would eat is that which I harvested from my own land. If I was too lazy to forage or couldn?t find anything edible  I would fast those days. Due to my own sloth, I probably lost 30 to 40 pounds during that time.  I was leaner and felt stronger then. I think I will adopt that again.

End of December 2007 Update:

After another big storm that dropped 6 inches of snow and an inch of rain on us, I left the cold Gila River. Finding the old trail was nearly impossible. I was just about to give up and was turning to go back, when I noticed what looked like a trail off to my left. It then looked like drainage from the steep cliff ahead. I then noticed a small unnatural line cut into the side of the cliff, ascending to the top. THIS was the trail!!! Holy s***, I started praying that Starlight would not start thinking about bears!

It was a steep scary ride. I walked most of the way on the 1000-foot climb that stretched half a mile. I was approaching an area where all I could see was blue sky. I was just thinking about getting off my mount and walking when a big red-tailed hawk appeared over the cliff,  headed straight for us. Of course, as bad as a bear in this circumstance, the large bird scared Starlight. This in turn scared me, and I believe the hawk was startled because he seemed to be flapping  his wings backwards to get away.

We came to the top of the mesa and it was difficult finding the trai which would appear and disappear. I figured I was spending too much time looking for the trail so I rode cross-country for two days. I was fortunate to find a spring and a great camp with good sun. The weather was cold but the sun was out allowing me to charge batteries, do laundry and take a hot solar shower.

At this time of the year, socks take two days to dry. With the low winter sun, it takes two solar showers filled halfway to heat up enough water for a good shower. There was good grass for the horses and they could be tied close to camp. I enjoy watching the horses eat,  but many times I have to tether them away from camp.

I found some pottery from the ancient Mimbres Tribe which disappeared  suddenly two centuries ago. The pottery is beautiful and quite  intricate with black and white colors. Some of the nicest pottery I've  found yet. The area also had arrowheads and flakes from rocks that  were worked into arrowheads.

Christmas-January 2007 Update:


Another snowstorm dropped a lot of snow in the high country just in  time for our Lord's birthday celebration of 2007. I tried to climb up to the Continental Divide in the Aldo Leopold Wilderness but the trail was icy and snow covered. I had to turn back. I was disappointed because I so wanted to climb in elevation and find a cell signal to 
call Karin, my friends and family to wish all a Merry Christmas.  Instead I was forced to follow a rode through a valley that marked the  boundaries of the Gila and Aldo Leopold Wildernesses heading North.

I spotted two Mexican Grey wolves that very day. I believe there were actually three more in the area due to the tracks I could identify in  the snow. I saw a lot of elk, deer and turkeys, and a bunch of  Cottontail rabbits. I rode along dirt roads for a week and a half.  They were icy with hidden puddles. The horses were slipping all the time, making for some hard riding. I walked a lot here.

I finally made it to a town called Chloride. What looked to be a ghost  town actually had a fire chief and when I met him, he stated that he might have a nice place for me to camp near his house. I told him I am a carpenter, plumber and electrician and he said he might have some work for me. He said he had to go get food in Winston. So, I headed  out of my way to his property. It took him 4 hours for the ride to Winston and back, and during that time, he changed his mind about work. I was at his property when he got home and it was almost dark.  He told me there would be no work for me and told me to camp in his lumberyard. There was barely any feed here for the horses on the day  after Christmas. I was out of there early the next morning with no send off.

As I was riding off it started storming with freezing, blowing snow.  The road out was over a narrow, windy paved rode through a mountain  pass; not what l really like to ride on when it is snow covered and  icy. On top of the road conditions, there were 18-wheeler logging  trucks going back and forth from the mine. I had o time each curve  between trucks so I would get hit or cause an accident. It was  terribly stressful.

The day before, the Fire Chief had offered me a month's work at his  place, we discussed what he needed done and everything. If I would not have taken the detour to his house, I would have ridden on and made it  over the pass and to a camp before the storm hit. I wish he would have  thought the decision through (or contacted his wife) before offering  me the work. That would have saved me some harrowing riding.

Halfway to Cuchillo, I found a spring near an old, abandoned adobe  house. A couple days later, some friendly hunters came by who were  related to an old lady who had been born in that adobe house. They  brought Sally out to meet me that Sunday. She brought some homemade tortillas she had made and carne asada. As we ate, she to told me a story she remembered of when she was a little girl. She learned how to  make tortillas from her mother. One day when Sally was about 4, when  she was watching her mother in the kitchen of the adobe house, she  climbed up on a wooden chair and started rocking it back and forth.  Her mother told her to quit because she would fall. She defied her  mother and continued rocking, finally falling when the chair slipped  on the dirt floor. Her mother gathered her up and gave her a  not-so-hard swat on the bum. She was surprised when her mother immediately started laughing and pointed out to her the large, white  handprint of flour on her pants.

Sally?s relatives, the hunters, Manny and Henry would come up every  few days to chat and bring me Sally had made for me. What great  hospitality from this woman and her family! Even thought they no longer occupied the homestead, they were consummate hosts, providing for my sustenance while visiting them. To think of it, I have yet to  meet a hunter that did not share whatever he had with me. Sally and  her family are a prime example of community good-will that I enjoy so  much when I come across it and when I do, I cannot help but pray to 
God in thanksgiving.


Mid January 2007 Update:

I stayed for two weeks at the adobe house, waiting out two more  storms. I heard there was a good spring in Dry Willow Creek. I moved  my camp there and found swarms of birds eating and drinking a beautiful oasis with great views of the mountains. There was a  man-made wishing well full of water, mining ruins nearby and I could  almost see all the way down to the White Sands Missile Range.

Record cold hit the area just about the time I was hoping for global  warming! Snowmobilers were lost for a couple days in the mountains  nearby. A snowboarder has been missing for two weeks now, and 5-6  people died of exposure with this viscous cold snap. It got down to single digits where I was.

The adobe house was a place I took some time to relax. There was lots  of sunshine for the solar panels between the storms. My tent warms up to 70 degrees in direct sunlight, even when it is 20 degrees outside. It is like a green house. I love the effect when the sun is high  because sometimes I can stop and watch DVD's inside the tent with the  solar panels charging the batteries from outside the door.

I?m nearly out of food now and had been relying mostly on foraging  wild food. Boy, it gets to be slim pickins in the desert. I lost about  30 or more pounds at this point since October. I felt great, but still  want to loose 30 more pounds. There are so many advantages to being  fit on the trail, including keeping the horses happy to be carrying less weight!

Recently, I have been cresting the top of a large hill nearby daily to get reception on the cell phone. I ordered a big box of food supplies  from Karin that will last another three or four months.  I have tasks  Karin will be performing for me in order to accomplish some of my  ideas. I?ll be out of coverage with the website until the beginning of Fall. In the meantime, Karin will write my updates from the brief  conversations we will have by cell. So long until Fall.

January 1, 2008

As the New Year is here, I have been reflecting back upon last year and boy, have things changed.  Last year, I was in the middle of  construction on a new house I built for a friend of mine in Arizona,  the horses were getting a lot of time off, and we were all FAT.

Now, everyone is getting lean---and mean.  Recently, I was riding on a  particularly treacherous trail outside Reserve, AZ when Starlight decided to pitch me off as I was waiting for Coley to cross a log that was over the trail.  Being out of touch with no cell coverage, I had not been seriously injured, but Karin had no idea what had become of me.  I was out of communication for over a month.

Crossing into New Mexico and the cold is affecting everything to do with this Expedition.  My travel has been slowed considerably as there have been quite a few storms and the welcomed snowfall this area so desperately needs.

I am headed for Truth or Consequences, New Mexico, where I plan on spending some time researching local history and continuing to plan my route.


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